| |
Frequently Asked Questions
Below are some of the questions that are frequently
asked regarding Magnecor's products, click on a question
and you will be taken to the appropriate answer.
This section is from our USA web site, as the majority
of the questions also refer to our market in the UK
& Europe.
Please note: the terminology used in the USA
can vary to our home market, e.g. "wires"
will mean "lead/cable/lead sets", so please
see our Glossary
of Terms
section if unsure of the definition of a word.
It may also help you when trying to describe a particular
item to the Magnecor Staff.
The Questions:
1.Why should I
choose Magnecor Ignition wires?
2.What is EMI,
and why is it important to suppress it?
3.Some performance
ignition wires advertise EMI suppression — are
Magnecor Race Wires suppressed any better?
4.Do I need ignition
wires with a low electrical resistance?
5.I have seen an
MSD demonstration stand which compares all the well
known "performance" wires — it shows
Magnecor KV85 wire’s resistance is higher than
any other brand of wire on the stand!
How much extra horsepower can I expect when I fit Magnecor
Race Wires?
6.Are Magnecor
Race Wires expensive?
7.How long will
Magnecor Race Wires last?
8.What are the
most common problems with ignition wires?
9.Do I need an
8.5mm or a 10mm size wire if my original wires are just
7mm (or smaller)?
10.I like the
flexibility of Magnecor Race Wires — is there
a reason your wires are not stiff like other performance
ignition wires — are any other wires as flexible?
11.What gain,
if any, will I get using 10mm size wires — compared
to 8.5mm size wires?
12.Which spark
plugs should I use with Magnecor Race Wires?
13.Why is it so
difficult to find Magnecor ignition wires in my area?
14.Why are sparks
jumping from boots and cable jacket?
15.After I fitted
Magnecor wires, my engine runs worse than it did before!
16.Performance
wires always interfere with my radio — are Magnecor
Race Wires any better?
17.I currently
have radio interference, how do I identify interference
coming from ignition wires?
18.Why are Magnecor
ignition wires for German and some other European vehicles
so different?
19.Which ignition
system should I fit to get extra horsepower?
20.(Received from
the UK) I see Nology advertise "Plasma Leads"
that increase horsepower — can Magnecor Race Wires
do the same?
21.I need suppressed
wires for my top fuel drag engine. I currently use solid
wire conductor ignition wires because the huge spark
energy this engine needs burns out every other style
of wires I try. Will Magnecor Race Wires work in this
situation?
22.How do I stop
wires popping off spark plugs (and distributor caps
and ignition coils)?
23.Do I need to
clean my wires? If so, what should I use?
24.Your web site
and advertising seem negative, why are you so critical
of your competitors?
25.I see "Vitek"
advertise that their wires resist 1,200 degree F temperatures,
is this possible?
26.I want to use
your KV85 Competition wires on my late model unmodified
street car. Can I damage stock ignition components if
I use these wires? I have heard that wires used for
race engines can do that.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Why should I choose Magnecor
Ignition wires ?
Magnecor RACE WIRES: Magnecor KV85 Competition (8.5mm)
and Magnecor R-100 Racing (10mm) Ignition Cables are
primarily designed for modern race and modified production
vehicle engines that use computerized engine management
systems and high-output ignition systems. Magnecor's
exclusive Metallic Inductance EMI Suppressed 2.5mm high-capacity
conductors (that cost 4 times more to manufacture than
original equipment or generic ignition wire conductors)
will maintain conductance of full spark energy indefinitely
without emitting EMI and RFI. For heat protection, Magnecor
Race Wires have insulating jackets made entirely of
aerospace silicone rubber (which costs 2-3 times more
than multi-layer generic jackets used on all other ignition
wires) that will withstand heat better than any other
ignition wires.Unmodified exhaust-emission controlled
production vehicles will also benefit from the improved
ignition performance and permanent EMI suppression provided
by Magnecor Race Wires. Best of all, Magnecor makes
wire sets for almost every engine ever made, as well
as custom made sets or individual leads to suit customer's
requirements.Original equipment or aftermarket carbon
conductor (suppression) ignition wires and European
and Japanese spiral wires will provide adequate EMI
and RFI suppression during the limited service life
of this style of ignition wires. However, none of these
wires are designed to be used with high-output ignition
systems, and will fail prematurely at conductor terminations
if used on a race engine, or an engine used in a street
vehicle where the original ignition system has been
replaced with a high-output ignition system.Spiral conductor
ignition wires that most performance parts marketers
include in their product lines sold through speed shops
and mass-merchandisers in the USA will function satisfactorily
on a carbureted race or modified street engine —however,
none will prevent EMI from interfering with a modern
engine's electronic ignition and fuel management system,
or any other on-board electronic device. Most "low-resistance"
and "super" conductor etc. wires are nothing
more than branded cheaply constructed generic spiral
conductor wires containing conductors that won't provide
(despite claims) either adequate EMI or RFI. More expensive
versions are dressed-up in elaborate colorful sleeves
to protect inferior jackets against the heat of a race
motor. EMI radiated from these ignition wires can adversely
affect the function of computer managed electronic ignition
and fuel systems, which in turn, will decrease engine
efficiency. Some of these wires have been made to resemble
Magnecor Race Wires in both color and cable diameter,
however the conductors and insulating jackets used are
entirely different.Magnecor's 7mm and 8mm conventional
High Performance Ignition Cables will provide the conductance,
RFI suppression and heat resistance similar to the very
best wire sets our performance parts competitors have
to offer, and superior to all the rest. However, unlike
our competitors' performance ignition wire sets lines,
all of which cover only a very limited selection of
popular unmodified and modified engines, Magnecor's
7mm and 8mm High Performance Ignition Cable line includes
ready-to-fit wire sets for almost every engine ever
made, as well as sets for popular modified engines and
custom made sets or individual leads to suit the requirements
of customers (and at very competitive prices). These
wire sets have always been popular for use on older
vehicles and restorations that do not require full EMI
suppression.
Back to Top
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------.
What is EMI, and why is it important to suppress
it ?
EMI = electromagnetic interferenceEMI from spark plug
wires can cause erroneous signals to be sent to engine
management systems and other on-board electronic devices
used on both racing and street vehicles in the same
manner as RFI (radio frequency interference) can cause
unwanted signals to be heard on a radio receiver. Engine
driveability problems ranging from intermittent missing
to a dramatic loss of power can result when engine management
computers receive signals from sensors that have been
altered by EMI radiating from spark plug wires. This
problem is most noticeable on modern street vehicles
used for commuting where virtually every function of
the vehicle's drive train is managed by a computer.
For many reasons, the effect of EMI on engine management
computers is never predictable and, often, improper
diagnosis for a driveability problem results in huge
repair costs for a consumer because engine management
sensors and other parts are replaced when all that was
needed was a set of ignition wires capable of suppressing
EMI (usually replaced as the last resort). As production
vehicles age, engine management sensors, connectors
and wiring deteriorate (and corrode) and become more
susceptible to EMI radiated from spark plug wires not
able to adequately suppress EMI. The problem is often
exacerbated by replacing the original ignition system
with a high-output system.
Back to Top
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Some performance ignition wires advertise EMI
suppression - are Magnecor Race Wires suppressed any
better?
Unfortunately, the claims in promotional literature
and advertisements that so-called "super conductors"
and "low-resistance" spiral conductor, as
well as so-called "built-in capacitor" wires
are EMI suppressed are as factual as other claims you
see for the same wires such as: "300 times more
powerful spark" —"30 times more spark
energy" —"15 times more powerful"
— "over 300% more spark energy" etc.
In reality, it is impossible for "low-resistance"
spiral conductor and so-called "built-in capacitor"
wires to properly suppress EMI (or increase sparks or
horsepower), even with the application of a short-lived
conductive coating (in which the spark current actually
travels when the wires are new) over the conductors'
spiral windings (see Truth About Ignition Wire Conductors).Performance
parts marketers of "low-resistance" spiral
conductor wires in particular have always claimed their
wires provide RFI suppression (which can be heard on
a radio), but in reality, the RFI suppression provided
is far from adequate. Fortunately for the marketers,
in anticipation of promised additional spark energy
and horsepower, most consumers who listen to FM broadcast
stations and drive in areas where AM radio signals are
strong will accept less RFI suppression than that provided
by original equipment ignition wires. Recently, the
same marketers have decided they need to claim their
"low-resistance" spiral conductor wires are
also EMI suppressed, and whereas consumers are able
to overlook inadequate RFI suppression, the same can't
be said about inadequate EMI suppression, because of
its effect on the driveability of vehicles using computerized
engine management systems. See our "A Brief Overview
..." document for more information.Again, fortunately
for performance parts marketers, it's surprising just
how few people (experts included) ever associate EMI
from ignition wires with driveability problems, and
since very few people ever challenge such ridiculous
claims as "300 times more powerful" sparks
etc.etc., the same marketers see no reason why they
can't also claim their "low-resistance" and
"super conductor" etc. spiral conductor and
"built-in capacitor" wires are EMI suppressed
—when in fact none are!Magnecor Race Wires are
specifically designed and constructed to suppress EMI
on high performance engines, using materials and production
methods too costly for ignition wires destined for marketing
through mass-merchandiser and most speed shop outlets.
The EMI suppression is permanent, as no conductive coatings
are used in Magnecor Race Wires. Do not be deceived
by the claims made for so-called "super conductor"
wires sold by most speed shops in the USA which have
a heavy application of a conductive coating over the
spiral windings —although these wires are made
to imitate Magnecor KV85 (8.5mm) ignition wires in both
size and color, neither the EMI suppression nor the
heat resistance is anywhere near that of Magnecor Race
Wires.Magnecor Race Wires are used by race teams all
over the world for the purpose of eliminating the problems
caused by EMI from ignition wires interfering with on-board
electronic equipment.
Back to Top
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Do I need ignition wires with a low electrical
resistance?
No. For a detailed answer to this important, and very
frequently asked question, see: Truth About Ignition
Wire Conductors.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
(Related answer to question 4) I have seen an MSD demonstration
stand which compares all the well known "performance"
wires — it shows Magnecor KV85 wire’s resistance
is higher than any other brand of wire on the stand
!The MSD demonstration stand (which MSD places in many
speed shops and performance parts retailers) is designed
to demonstrate that a MSD wire has a lower resistance
than any other brand "performance wire." The
issue of low resistance spiral wires is addressed in
our document "The Truth About Ignition Wire Conductors."
For more information about our competitors promoting
features of their wires that are of no use to anyone
but themselves, see our document "A Brief Overview
of the Performance Aftermarket Ignition Wire Industry
in the USA"We are aware of the MSD demonstration
stand, and we certainly appreciate the free promotion
MSD gives to our product. We have sold many wire sets
to knowledgeable technicians and race and performance
street vehicle owners who were previously unaware that
ignition wire capable of providing adequate suppression
for race and modified engines was available —
until they saw the MSD demonstration stand!
Back to Top
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
How much extra horsepower can I expect when
I fit Magnecor Race Wires?
Professional race engine preparers do not use Magnecor
Race Wires to increase engine horsepower —they
use them to maintain full engine horsepower. Often,
production vehicle owners comment that engine performance
increased after they fitted Magnecor Race Wires, and
most owners of modified vehicles find that horsepower
increases during a dyno test — however, in reality,
performance increases because the engine's potential
power was previously restrained by:(1) Failing conductors
in original equipment ignition wires;
(2) Failing conductors in aftermarket carbon conductor
and European and Japanese spiral conductor ignition
wires;
(3) Failing resistor-connectors on German ignition wires;
(4) Aftermarket spiral "low-resistance" and
"super conductor" ignition wires interfering
with the engine's electronics;
(5) So-called "built-in capacitor" ignition
wires inducing too much available current to ground
straps and interfering with the engine's electronics.Despite
what is published in advertisements and some vested
interest magazine articles, no spark plug wires will
generate or "install" additional horsepower.
However, a decrease in horsepower will occur if the
wires' conductors fail to conduct the spark energy needed
to fire spark plug gaps, or EMI emitted from spark plug
wires causes the engine management computer to react
abnormally, or so much spark energy is lost into the
ground straps of so-called "built-in capacitor"
wires that little is left to fire the spark plug gaps
—see test in Circle Track Magazine (USA), May,
1996 issue. For these reasons, Magnecor Race Wires are
used by many successful race teams and individuals all
over the world to eliminate the risk of such events
occurring.
Back to Top
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Are Magnecor Race Wires expensive?
The price you pay for Magnecor Race Wires can seem reasonable
or surprisingly inexpensive for owners replacing original
equipment ignition wires. The design and complexity
of engines fitted to new production vehicles in recent
years has come to rival the engines that were once only
available in expensive exotic cars. Reliability up to
50,000 miles can be expected, but the crunch comes when
owners discover the cost of maintaining these vehicles
also rivals the cost of maintaining an exotic car, and
often the absurd price asked for OE replacement ignition
wires (that can cost up to US$1,200) causes owners to
search for replacement wires that not only cost less,
but are of better quality than the original wires that
have failed. The result has been owners of these vehicles
have been purchasing Magnecor Race Wires, the only ignition
wires available for these exotic engines other than
the original equipment wires.At the other end of the
price scale, Magnecor Race Wires will appear expensive
for owners who generally purchase inferior generic spiral
conductor ignition wires distributed through mass-merchandisers
and speed shops, after wires are branded, packaged and
sold as part of a performance parts marketer's product
line. For this reason, both our retailers and ourselves
are often asked: "Why are Magnecor KV85 Competition
and R-100 Race Wire sets more expensive than some other
brand performance wires?" The reason is the design
and construction of Magnecor Race Wires is entirely
different to any other ignition wires on the market.
These wires are manufactured exclusively by Magnecor
specifically for racing without regard to the cost saving
measures used by all other manufacturers who sell their
wires through mass-merchandisers and speed shops.Although
Magnecor has been manufacturing progressive versions
of its suppressed ignition wires for racing engines
for over 21 years, it's only in recent years owners
of newer vehicles used exclusively on the street have
been discovering that Magnecor Race Wires (because of
the EMI suppression provided) will improve ignition
performance on late model exhaust emission controlled
engines. As well, these owners find Magnecor 8.5mm Race
Wires will fit into the original 7or 8mm wire retainer/separators
because of the flexibility of the aerospace grade silicone
rubber jackets Magnecor uses for its Race Wires.However,
the popularity of Magnecor Race Wires amongst street
vehicle owners has not gone unnoticed by our competitors
in the performance aftermarket, and a few have recently
introduced oversized "performance" wire sets
(some almost identical in appearance to Magnecor 8.5mm
KV85 Competition wires) for even the late model small
capacity engines that require proper EMI suppression
to run satisfactorily. Unfortunately, their wire sets
all use the same low-grade ignition cable with the same
conductor (that can't properly suppress EMI) they use
for older engines that don't require EMI suppression,
and their oversized wires can't be satisfactorily fitted
into the original 7mm retainer/separators — however,
some are cheaper than Magnecor Race Wires! What Magnecor
does provide for the price you pay is ignition wires
specifically designed and constructed to conduct the
full energy output from both original equipment and
high out racing ignition systems while providing full
EMI and RFI suppression. Magnecor manufactures its own
Race Wires, therefore quality is rigidly controlled.
Back to Top
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
How long will Magnecor Race Wires last?
The conductors used in all Magnecor ignition cables
will outlast the life of the engine unless deliberately
severed. The life of ignition wire assemblies relies
entirely on the ability of the owner and/or installer
to install the wires correctly (particularly on engines
designed to make it impossible to easily reach spark
plugs), and the need to attach the wires to spark plugs
and distributor/coils which are in good working order.
The care taken when removing the wires at times when
spark plugs are removed and replaced can also affect
the life of spark plug wires. On late model multi-valve
engines with spark plugs situated in deep un-drained
holes, the life of wire assemblies is limited to that
of the extended spark plug connectors fitted to the
spark plug wires used on these engines. In turn, the
life of the spark plug connectors relies entirely on
the ability of the vehicle owner to keep excess moisture
and engine oil out of the holes so as not to damage
the connectors. The life of any ignition wire will be
reduced if fitted too close to extreme heat sources
which exceed the heat ratings of the wire assembly's
insulating materials.On most Chrysler 2.2 and 2.5 liter
4 cylinder engines where the original design of the
distributor uses ignition wire terminals as internal
arcing points, the life of the wires is limited to that
of the terminals.Specific problems which affect spark
plug wire life are discussed in our technical bulletins.
Back to Top
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What are the most common problems with ignition
wires?
Common causes of ignition wire failure that are eliminated
by using Magnecor ignition wires are:* Carbon conductors
wearing out and burning back in original equipment and
aftermarket wires;
* Spiral conductors burning back from pin-type terminations
in European and Japanese original equipment and aftermarket
wires;
* Spiral conductors burning back from core-crimp (also
know as "dual crimp") terminals not properly
terminated;
* Resistor-connectors burning out in German original
equipment and aftermarket wires;
* Insulation jacket breakdown under braided metal sleeves
fitted to so-called "built-in capacitor" wires.Additional
common causes of ignition wire failure that include
Magnecor ignition wires are:No proper engagement of
the spark plug, distributor, and coil terminals —the
most common installation problem. This problem is not
always immediately noticeable when using Magnecor Race
Wires, because the high capacity conductors do not reduce
spark energy like carbon conductors. In most cases,
if an engine miss does become noticeable, and the ignition
wires are determined to be the cause, the problem can
be simply solved by ensuring connectors are properly
engaged. Often, by looking into the spark plug end,
a black substance will appear on a normally shiny terminal
if it has not been engaging the spark plug top properly
for some time. Fitting instructions are always included
in Magnecor ignition wire set packages, together with
additional instructions for engines with a history of
ignition wire failures due to the difficulty of installation
and other causes including moisture accumulating in
deep spark plug holes.Combustion gases leaking past
spark plug gaskets and spark plug porcelain seals (and
cracks) can cause wire boots and connectors to pop of
spark plugs. Also, the opposite can occur if, over time,
a small amount of corrosive combustion gas continues
to leak from around the very top of a spark plug porcelain
to cause a galvanic action, which binds the wire's metal
terminal to the spark plug top, and if enough force
is used, the cable can be wrenched out of the terminal
in an endeavor to remove the spark plug boot/connector.
Small size spark plugs are prone to this problem in
turbocharged and supercharged engines. IMPORTANT: It
is good practice to let any engine cool before spark
plug boot/connectors are pulled off the spark plugs,
as often, when engine is hot, certain spark plug tops
will expand more than the stainless steel terminals
inside the boot/connectors. Whenever a spark plug top
expands (and locks) inside a terminal, any attempt to
forcefully remove the wire connector from the spark
plug will usually result in the cable being wrenched
out of the terminal, with the terminal remaining locked
to the spark plug top. Unfortunately, silicone rubber
will never be as strong as stainless steel.Extended
multi-part plastic spark plug connectors used mostly
on Japanese engine ignition wires can be terminally
damaged by arcing over the plastic extension tube of
any connector whenever moisture accumulates in the spark
plug hole. This style of connectors can also be pulled
apart if pulled to one side and brute force is used
to remove them. A surprising number of owners and installers
attempt to remove extended connectors from the spark
plugs without first unclipping the wires from retainer/dividers,
a practice which inevitably causes connectors to be
pulled up at an angle. Some spark plugs have oversized
soft metal tops that work well with the loose-fitting
light gauge terminals used on some Japanese original
equipment wires, but care needs to be taken when removing
Magnecor Race Wires with heavy duty stainless steel
terminals (needed for high-output race ignitions) that
can be locked onto soft spark plug tops if connectors
are not pulled straight up, and deep scouring of the
spark plug top occurs. Also, some extended connectors
contain an original style terminal which can be unlocked
inside the plastic tube if a connector is twisted (for
removal) in an attempt to free a terminal locked onto
a spark plug top. Again, always wait until engine cools
before removing spark plug connectors.Excessive oil
from leaking valve cover draining into spark plug holes
and filling up to the bottom seals of extended multi-part
plastic spark plug connectors can cause the bottom seals
to un-glue themselves from the plastic extension tubes
when the connectors are removed. The only real cure
for this problem is to replace the leaking valve cover
gaskets. Generally, if there is no crazed arcing tracks
over the plastic extension tubes, the oil-soaked connectors
can be re-used if you are able to re-glue (with RTV
silicone adhesive) the detached seals to the end of
the plastic extension tubes after the seals and tubes
have been thoroughly cleaned with grease removing cleaner
(do not soak them in a solvent), and as much as possible
of the old RTV is removed. You can also send for new
seals if the detached seals are too swollen. Alternatively,
you can send the wires to Magnecor for new seals to
be re-glued onto the extension tubes —please leave
it to us to clean off the oil. Evidence of leaking oil
is usually obvious on the spark plug connectors - as
this picture demonstrates.THE MIS-USE OF SILICONE DI-ELECTRIC
GREASE:
The over-use of silicone dielectric grease placed inside
extended multi-part plastic spark plug connectors can
cause them to pop off spark plugs. All too often (particularly
on engines notorious for moisture accumulation in spark
plug holes) we see so much grease stuffed into the connectors
that virtually no room is left for the spark plug tops.
Only a film of grease should to be applied at the mouth
of the connectors' bottom seals to help prevent moisture
seepage. Unfortunately, the heat from the spark plug
porcelain will eventually cause the grease to run out
of the seals, so it needs to be applied on a regular
basis it your vehicle is driven in the rain for long
periods of time or you live in an area (such as near
the sea) where condensation accumulates all over the
engine without it raining. It is important that only
silicone dielectric grease is used for this purpose,
as other greases can become conductive.Fitting spark
plug boots too close to 1,500 degrees F (815 degrees
C) plus headers (exhaust manifolds, extractors) and
turbocharger plumbing is another problem encountered
on modified production engines. Some header aftermarket
designs make it impossible to fit spark plug wires without
the spark plug boot touching the header. Currently,
the best silicone rubber spark plug boots are limited
to 600 degrees F (316 degrees C), and ceramic boots
don't really help because they need to use rubber seals
to prevent arcing. Various fiberglass covers can help,
but in extreme situations where there is little or no
airflow, the fiberglass can almost reach the temperature
of the heat source, and for this reason, tight fitting
fiberglass sleeves over the cable jacket are virtually
useless for heat protection. Recently, spark plug boots
onto which a mildly reflective metallic coating is applied
have been promoted as being able to withstand up to
1,000 degrees F (538 degrees C), and although this figure
is an exaggeration, these boots will certainly tolerate
more heat. The downside is the boot's coating is conductive,
and during our evaluation of whether or not to use these
boots on our wires, we discovered there will be times
when the spark energy finds it easier to induce itself
into the boot's coating (and ground out to the spark
plug base) than to fire a spark plug with a wide gap
(electrode gap deliberately widened or worn away) —causing
the engine to misfire.Our customers have reported that
loose-fitting highly reflective coated fiberglass sleeves
slid over spark plug boots can help in some cases. Thick
loose fitting fire sleeve fitted over the spark plug
wires are very effective on race engines, but generally
it's bulk makes it impractical for use on a street engine
(and unsightly on a well presented street car engine).
By far the best solution for heat related problems with
all engine wiring is to shield, wrap or coat the heat
source itself, and to introduce more airflow around
where the spark plug wires are located. Most parts used
to make Magnecor Race Wires are available as spare parts.
Excessive-heat damaged boots can be replaced at our
plant or ordered as separate items. Wherever possible,
Magnecor Race Wire sets for certain engines will include
modifications to original design of the spark plug wires
to help overcome the problems caused by poor original
wire and/or engine design.Battery acid can can attack
ignition wires if it's allowed to remain on wires, boots
and/or connectors. If, for any reason battery acid finds
it way onto the ignition wires (usually as a result
of a collision or battery removal), the wires should
be immediately washed down with at water combined with
baking soda (to kill the acid). Also, battery acid will
attack skin and clothing.SPARK PLUGS NEED REPLACING:
Over the years, we have never ceased to be amazed how
many people blame problems caused by spark plugs on
the ignition wires. Ignition wires are nothing other
than conductors of spark energy, and if the spark plug
gaps are eroded or set too large, or a spark plug itself
is defective for a variety of reasons, the energy conducted
will be wasted. No spark plug lasts forever, and rarely,
does any spark plug last as long as advertised, particularly
if you want your engine to perform satisfactorily. Sometimes,
spark plug problems can be disguised and postponed with
stock wires, which provide suppression by reducing spark
energy to the plugs, and sometimes spark plug problems
can be made worse by Magnecor KV85 and R-100 wires designed
to provide suppression without reducing spark energy
from the coil (more so, with high-output ignitions).
Unfortunately, all engines lose power if any or all
spark plugs are not performing satisfactorily, no matter
what ignition system or ignition wires are used.See
also: sparks from.
Back to Top
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Do I need an 8.5mm or a 10mm size wire if my
original wires are just 7mm (or smaller)?
If you don't intend to upgrade your vehicle's original
ignition with a high-output ignition, you may not need
larger size wires. Magnecor KV85 and R-100 Race Wires
have been designed primarily for race engines that will
be run with high-output ignition systems, and contain
high-capacity 2.5mm conductors that require extra insulation
when used with extreme-output ignition systems. Magnecor
Race Wires will also be exposed to heat an unmodified
production vehicle will never experience. However, the
major advantage Magnecor Race Wires have over conventional
5mm, 7mm and 8mm wires is that neither the high-capacity
conductor nor the insulating jacket will wear out during
the life of the engine.
Back to Top
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I like the flexibility of Magnecor Race Wires
— is there a reason your wires are not stiff like
other performance ignition wires — are any other
wires as flexible?
This is a question we are continually asked by Honda
and other Japanese-engine owners in particular who previously
attempted to fit other brand oversize spark plug wires
to their engines. The reason Magnecor Race Wires are
so flexible is that the insulating jackets are made
entirely of high-temperature aerospace silicone rubber,
which by nature is strong and extremely flexible, and,
unlike all other performance wires, can safely be installed
into the original 7mm size spark plug wire retainers
despite the larger 8.5mm (Magnecor KV85) cable size.All
other ignition wires use multi-layered insulating jackets
to reduce manufacturing costs, and all performance wires
use either a thin layer of low-grade silicone rubber
or a silicone blend as the outer jacket (sleeve). No
oversize performance wires other than Magnecor KV85
can be successfully installed into the original 7mm
retainers without the risk of breaking the retainers
— if at all!A consumer's best indication as to
the quality of a spark plug wire's insulating jacket
is the stiffness of the cable used; the stiffer the
cable — the poorer the materials used to make
the outer "silicone" or blend jacket. Of course,
at extra expense, poor quality spark plug wires can
be covered with loose sleeves designed to protect against
engine heat, and this is the reason so many of these
products have become so popular in recent years.However,
low-resistance spiral conductor wires with more flexible
low-quality silicone outer jackets have been developed
in an attempt to imitate Magnecor Race Wires, and are
appearing in mass-merchandisers and speed shops.
Back to Top
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What gain, if any, will I get using 10mm size
wires — compared to 8.5mm size wires?
Our R-100 (10mm) cable has a thicker insulating jacket,
designed for extreme heat situations or where extra
insulation is needed for extreme-output ignition systems
and where it's not easy to space the wires from one
another and/or the engine. Our KV85 (8.5mm) and R-100
(10mm) cables both use the same conductors and provide
the same spark energy output, and, as most street and
modified production engines don't really need a cable
size larger than 8.5mm, using our 10mm size cable is
usually overkill (or for appearance). Please understand
our 10mm cables, due to their large diameter and bulk,
will take more room, and a little longer to fit and
loom correctly.
Back to Top
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Which spark plugs should I use with Magnecor
Race Wires?
This is a difficult question to answer, and is in fact
one of our most frequently asked questions, but in general
you can use any spark plugs with Magnecor Race Wires.
On a full race engine, spark plugs specifically designed
for racing should be chosen. A decision as to which
type and brand should be made only after investigating
which spark plug is used by other competitors racing
engines and vehicles similar to yours. You might find
it easier to get this information from spark plug suppliers,
although experimentation will always be necessary.On
production vehicles used exclusively on the street in
standard tune, often the vehicle manufacturer's original
spark plugs are a good choice, except where a double
platinum version is available — which is a better
choice. Always use resistor spark plugs if the vehicle
manufacturer specifies them, as the resistance is there
to not only to help reduce RFI, but also to extend the
life of spark plugs by reducing tip erosion.Unless you
know someone with an identical vehicle who can vouch
for spark plugs that are heavily promoted and promise
extra horsepower and fuel mileage, it's best to avoid
them, as these spark plugs rarely fulfill the claims
made — and always, you will be paying more in
the price for the promotion that makes you think you
need them than the cost to manufacture the actual spark
plugs!After fitting a high-output ignition most people
are tempted to widen spark plug gaps, and although the
latest aftermarket ignition systems can easily cope
with the extra voltage necessary to jump the larger
gap, often the smaller diameter spark plugs used in
most recent street engines will cause an engine misfire
(usually at high RPM) after a few miles because the
spark tends to track down the coating formed from combustion
on the center electrode insulator in preference to crossing
the widened spark plug gap. Also, wider-gap spark plugs
will wear out prematurely. Owners of some modified street
cars have found differences in acceleration response
by altering spark plug gaps, but generally, if Magnecor
Race Wires are used, the best response will be attained
with a standard gap. Again, experimentation is always
necessary.If you are experiencing problems finding a
suitable spark plug for your modified production engine,
you should try spark plugs such as those made by Torque
Master (who also make plugs for full race engines) if
you don't want to be constantly changing spark plugs.
Most people we encounter using this style of plug find
them useful for this purpose.VERY IMPORTANT —
PLEASE NOTE:
Because of the huge variety of different brand spark
plugs currently available, care needs to taken to ensure
the spark plugs you use to replace worn out plugs are
identical in proportion. This is particularly important
if your engine uses multi-part extension type spark
plug connectors with top seals that need to fit flush
with the valve cover. You need to ensure that the height
of each spark plug from the gasket seal to the top of
the spark plug is identical to the original factory
spark plugs, if you think the height of the plugs you
are about to fit are different to that of the originals,
please contact us before ordering. We have seen spark
plugs, sold as aftermarket replacement and/or performance
plugs, that can be up to 5mm taller (top seals will
be pushed up) and 5mm or more shorter (spark plug wires
may not properly engage spark plugs).
Back to Top
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Why is it so difficult to find Magnecor ignition
wires in my area?
Although progressive versions of Magnecor KV85 and R-100
Race Wires are used extensively in racing all over the
world, and have been available for over 10 years, it's
only in recent years our Race Wires have become popular
with unmodified street vehicle owners. Generally, vehicle
manufacturers and their dealers, as well as auto part
stores and their trade installer customers, regard ignition
wires as profitable consumable service items (like spark
plugs, oil filters etc.), and therefore they are not
inclined to stock or install items like Magnecor ignition
wires that will not bring repeat business while their
consumer customers own a vehicle on which Magnecor ignition
wires were installed. Cost is also important, and usually
the only brands stocked are those that offer the lowest
price (to the store). In the US auto parts aftermarket,
sets with wire lengths that fit more than one engine
are also popular to reduce the inventory the store needs
to carry (which, these days is a staggering financial
burden), and although these sets do at least help customers
find something to fit their engine, it's unlikely that
any of these set will be a good fit.The majority of
US speed shops stock only whatever is the cheapest in
the flashiest package. Usually, speed shops prefer to
stock universal wire sets that contain unfinished spark
plug and coil wires that need to be cut, booted and
terminated to eliminate the hassle of looking for wires
to sell to customers needing non-stock sizes and to
prevent the loss of sales because their usual suppliers
do not make wire sets for a huge number of engines.
Also they want to reduce inventory they need to carry.
Almost all ignition wires stocked by US speed shops
are part of a line of performance parts that predominately
come from marketers such as Accel, Crane, Ford Motorsport,
Holley, Jacobs, Mallory, Moroso, MSD, Taylor, etc. and
most are generic spiral conductor wires dressed up in
various forms and colors that are cheaply constructed
to keep the cost of such wires competitive, and appealing
to most speed shops who seem unconcerned about quality
and proper suppression. Unfortunately, Magnecor's policy
of only supplying well fitting, top-performing, long-lasting
ignition wires only appeals to parts stores, speed shops
and new car dealers who specialize in stocking quality
performance parts and employ well trained knowledgeable
staff who are more familiar with what's best for their
customers than what's the most profitable for themselves.
Fortunately, the number customer-oriented outlets is
growing to cater for consumers who are becoming more
knowledgeable and therefore more quality conscious.
A ready-to-install Magnecor Race Wire set is available
for almost every stock engine ever made, as well as
for the hundreds of modified and race engines for which
Magnecor has recorded specifications over the last 21
years. Magnecor can quickly make any wire set to suit
a customer's specifications (at no extra cost).CAUTION
— UNIVERSAL WIRE SETS (any brand including Magnecor):Although
many experienced installers are able to successfully
cut, strip, terminate and boot Magnecor Race Wires (which
can be bought as universal sets) using our professional
heavy duty crimping tool, we do not recommend that you
attempt to do so unless it's an absolute emergency,
particularly if you are using our 10mm diameter cable.
As anyone who has done this job will tell you —
it's not easy to terminate any brand or diameter unfinished
spark plug wires, even using the flimsy closing tools
and crimping pliers that are available from speed shops.
Nothing is more time consuming and frustrating than
constantly re-terminating spark plug wires on engines
designed to make spark plug wires impossible to reach.FINALLY:If
you can't find a Magnecor dealer in your area, you can
buy directly from the factory in the USA. You can also
buy direct from our overseas importing distributors.
More information about how to contact us or our distributors
is here.
Back to Top
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Why are sparks jumping from boots and cable
jacket?
Occasionally we are contacted by both installers and
vehicle owners who tell us that an engine on which they
have installed Magnecor ignition wires is misfiring,
and they see sparks coming from the boots or cable jacket.
In almost every instance the problem is caused by improper
installation of the wires and/or bad termination of
universal wires. Also, a failed or excessively gapped
spark plug, a cracked or condensation-laden (inside)
distributor cap or a cracked ignition coil tower can
cause arcing that seems to come from the ignition wires.
Any of these problems causes spark energy to find it
easier to induce itself to the outside of the cable
jacket and/or boots, as well as arcing over the inside
of moist distributor caps and coil towers in preference
to jumping the spark plug gap. Also, the distributor
cap and/or coil could have been damaged (cracked or
burnt) by failed conductors in the previous ignition
wires burning back inside the cable insulating jackets
or by failed solid resistor connectors used on European
ignition wires. Often, on some Chrysler vehicles, the
ignition coil has been changed by the previous owner
to a non-Chrysler coil, and unless we are made aware
of this situation, the coil lead we supply in sets will
only properly fit a Chrysler coil. It's possible to
loosely fit conventional coil leads into Chrysler coils,
and forcibly fit Chrysler coil leads to conventional
coils — however in most cases arcing will occur!
This is only a problem on certain Chrysler vehicles
sold in USA from 1978-1991The first step needed to solve
an arcing problem is to ensure the terminals inside
the spark plug and distributor boots are properly engaged.
Damage can occur if the engine has run long periods
with wires not properly connected, although in most
instances when using Magnecor Race Wires the damage
at the spark plug end is usually confined to the spark
plug top if the ignition wires incorporate one piece
rubber type spark plug boots. On certain engines (mostly
of Japanese origin), using ignition wires that include
multi-part hard plastic extension type spark plug connectors,
the all-too-common problem of moisture from condensation
accumulating in un-drained spark plug holes can terminally
damage spark plug connectors because arcing will occur
over the wet plastic extension tubes and bottom seals.
Sometimes, if excess moisture is allowed to fill up
spark plug holes, arcing will occur even if one piece
silicone rubber boots are substituted for the original
multi-part hard plastic extension type connectors. Owners
of these cars (the Ford Taurus SHO, recent Ford Escort
GT and Mazda Miata engines being the most prone) should
be aware that washing down the motor can also contribute
to this serious problem, as the top covers of the spark
plug connectors (which appear to be used to keep water
and dirt out) have air vents. Also, the vents cause
condensation from the air (particularly in areas by
the sea) to accumulate inside the spark plug holes even
if you don't wash your engine or drive your car in the
rain. The best cure for this problem is to carefully
remove the spark plug connectors and remove all moisture
from the spark plug holes with either compressed air
(wear eye protection), a shop vacuum or by absorbent
paper towels if your car has traveled through a wet
season, you wash down the motor regularly or live in
an area where condensation noticeably accumulates over
the engine (usually during the night as a hot engine
cools down). At the same time it's a good idea to check
if oil (usually from leaking valve covers) is also present,
as the presence of oil will make a bad situation even
worse. Photographs indicating what you may see if you
have moisture or oil in the spark plug holes can be
seen in some of our Technical Bulletins.Another problem
we encounter from time to time is arcing from multi-part
hard plastic extension type spark plug connectors when
original screw-on metal spark plug tops (nuts) are replaced
by taller tops that keep the bottom connector seals
too far above the normal sealing position. Although
these taller tops are included in Bosch spark plug boxes
presumably to allow the spark plug to be used on a multitude
of engines on which taller plugs were originally used,
these taller tops are often used to help solve the problem
of the spark plug connectors vibrating or shaking loose
on engines which have a balance or mount problem. If
your spark plug connectors are continually coming loose,
please advise us at the time you order a Magnecor wire
set, as usually we can supply you with modified connectors
which can decrease the number of times the connectors
vibrate or shake loose — although more care will
have to be taken when later removing the connectors.Also,
please read this important note about spark plug heights!If
you are experiencing a problem, and you think the wires
have not been properly connected for many miles, you
should examine the spark plug tops for burning —
as to simply re-fit the ignition wires to the damaged
spark plug top could cause the terminal inside the spark
plug boot to either lock onto a rough burnt surface
or be so loose on a burnt-away top that no proper contact
will be made. Whenever either, or both, an ignition
wire's spark plug end and distributor end metal terminals
are not properly engaged the spark energy needs to jump
an additional gap on its way to the spark plug gap inside
the pressurized combustion chamber. Because spark energy
always finds the path of least resistance, that path
may be an induced path outside the cable jacket situated
near a grounding point or from the inside of a loose
boot in preference to jumping the spark plug gap under
pressure plus the additional gap created by the loose
connector. The potential of spark energy being induced
from the conductor inside any or all spark plug wires
to the outside of the insulating jacket or boots (and
sometimes into an adjacent wire) is the reason why it's
so important to space all spark plug wires from one
another and away from both metal surfaces and coolant
hoses, particularly if your engine is race or modified
engine that will generate high combustion chamber pressures,
and/or will be using fuels that are difficult to fire,
and also if a spark plug fails. It never ceases to amaze
even the experts how readily the spark from an automobile
ignition system can find an unusual path of least resistance
— particularly when it wants to jump a 25mm or
more free air gap in preference to firing a failed or
excessively gapped spark plug inside the pressure of
a combustion chamber! Here is an example of a spark
plug that has failed due to excessive gaps.If Magnecor
Race Wires are used on an unmodified production street
engine with a stock ignition, the importance of spacing
spark plug wires is less important. Generally our KV85
Competition wires (8.5mm cable size) will fit into the
original equipment wire holder/separators because the
silicone rubber jacket is extremely flexible and tear
resistant.
Back to Top
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
After I fitted Magnecor wires, my engine runs
worse than it did before !The usual causes for this
problem are as follows:(1) The wires have not been correctly
fitted — see FAQ's:
"What are the most common problems with
with ignition wires?" and "Why are sparks
jumping from the boots and cable jacket?" Also
make sure the wires have been fitted to the engine in
the correct cylinder firing sequence.(2) Often, DIY's
just replace ignition wires in an endeavor to rectify
an engine miss, only to discover the problem is not
solved because other ignition components are contributing
to the problem. When Magnecor Race Wires are installed
on an engine with deteriorated ignition components,
an engine miss can seem worse, because the full coil
output current conducted by Magnecor wires, via the
distributor, to the spark plugs tends to find every
weakness in a deteriorated ignition system that wasn't
so apparent when coil output was absorbed (and wasted)
in the original carbon conductor or resistor-connector
type ignition wires.Each time you replace ignition wires,
it's important you at least closely inspect the distributor
cap and rotor, as well as the ignition coil tower (or
coil pack towers on a DIS) for condensation accumulation,
cracks and burning. If the distributor cap and rotor
have run in excess of 50,000 miles (80,000 Km), replacement
should be considered. Spark plugs also should be inspected
and re-gapped if necessary. Unless spark plugs are the
double platinum type, it's wise to replace any that
have run in excess of 30,000 miles (50,000 Km). All
turbocharged or supercharged engines are hard on spark
plugs, and even a relatively new spark plug can develop
cracks in the porcelain insulator, allowing combustion
gas to escape inside a wire's boot or connector, and
arcing can occur down a spark plug's porcelain and ground
out from under the wire's boot or connector seal. Always
look for dark colored gas leaks and cracks on the outside
of the spark plugs' porcelain.(3) When an engine runs
rougher after replacing a multitude of ignition system
components including ignition wires (usually installed
last of all), DIY's often conclude the wires must be
the cause. If Magnecor ignition wires are installed
correctly, it's almost impossible for the wires (by
themselves) to cause the engine to run roughly. Rough
engine running problems do occur when ignition points,
electronic modules, pickup coils, rotors, and distributor
caps are not properly installed or damaged, or wiring
to these components is disturbed or damaged. Also, vacuum
tubing and wiring associated with timing devices connected
to the distributor and other engine management components
can also be disturbed or damaged and cause the engine
to run roughly. If this problem does occur, every component
should be checked, keeping in mind that improper installation
can terminally damage electronic components.
Back to Top
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Performance wires always interfere with my radio
— are Magnecor Race Wires any better?
I currently have radio interference, how do
I identify interference coming from ignition wires?Magnecor
Race Wires, if properly fitted, will provide excellent
RFI suppression indefinitely for virtually all vehicles
in which the original carbon conductor ignition wires
provided adequate suppression. In severe cases, such
as those experienced by mobile ham radio operators,
where carbon conductor ignition wires (original and/or
aftermarket) provide RFI suppression only for a short
time before replacement is again needed, we recommend
the use of our CN Series Race Wires, the only ignition
wires capable of indefinitely suppressing severe RFI
without reducing spark current!The majority of original
equipment and aftermarket carbon conductor (suppression)
wires will provide adequate RFI suppression until the
wire conductors' limited suppression life is exceeded.
Unfortunately, for mobile ham radio operators in particular,
the effective RFI suppression life of most carbon conductor
ignition wires is less than that required by anyone
listening only to signals received on commercial AM
and FM broadcast bands.No spiral conductor "pro"
etc. ignition wires sold in mass-merchandisers and speed
shops will provide adequate (if any) RFI suppression
for Ham radios, TV and sensitive sound equipment. Most
provide token RFI suppression by coating the spiral
conductor with a conductive latex or silicone compound,
which, like a carbon conductor, is only effective for
a limited time — see: Truth About Ignition Wire
Conductors.A guide to identifying radio-interference
noises caused by ignition wires:Often, we are asked
to describe how broadcast band noise can be identified
as coming from ignition wires. Although it's hard to
describe in words:On the AM band, noise coming from
spark plug wires is usually heard as a sharp "clacking"
noise (from speakers) at idle that increases with engine
speed to a "ZZZZ" sound at higher rpm. A faulty
coil wire will always create a "ZZZZ" noise.
A faulty or inadequately grounded antenna lead, or a
heavily corroded antenna body can also cause the same
sounds, even with good wires. On the FM band, if you
hear a ticking noise that increases with engine speed,
it's more than likely that somewhere in the ignition
system a spark is jumping to ground, or a spark is jumping
a large gap inside a carbon conductor wire with the
conductor burning back from the metal terminal. Loose
or badly fitted spark plug and coil wires, wires burnt
through from header or turbocharger plumbing heat, ignition
coil or coil packs with cracks in towers or bodies,
cracks in distributor caps and failed or excessively
worn or gapped spark plugs (causing sparks to come out
of spark plug boots and connectors) all can create open
sparks that can be heard on the FM band.WARNING about
metal shielded and so-called "Built-in Capacitor"
ignition wires: Although using a grounded metal shielding
over the entire length of each ignition wire will certainly
provide RFI suppression, and this style of wire is still
used on low-revving piston driven aircraft engines,
it is common knowledge (from experience) amongst automotive
electrical engineers that it's unwise to use ignition
wires fitted with grounded metal shielding over ignition
cable jackets on a high-revving automobile engine —
as the problems caused by any style of ignition wires
which need to be grounded have proven to be so great,
that using them should be avoided at all costs!This
type of ignition wire forces the cable jacket to become
an unsuitable dielectric for a crude capacitor (effect)
between the conductor and the grounded braiding. While
the wires function normally when first fitted, the cable
jacket under the metal shielding soon breaks down as
a dielectric, and progressively more and more spark
energy is induced from the conductor (through the cable
jacket) into the grounded shielding, causing the ignition
coil to unnecessarily output more energy to fire both
the spark plug gaps and the additional energy being
lost in the grounded metal shielding. This situation
leads to engine power loss, and eventually to ignition
system overload failures as the insulating ability of
the cable jacket (under the metal shielding) breaks
down.Ignition wires promoted as having "built-in
capacitors" are nothing more than solid wire or
spiral conductor wires over which grounded metal shielding
is fitted to only part of the wires' insulating jacket.
These wires have all the disadvantages of wires with
grounded metal shielding over the entire length of each
ignition wire — without being able to properly
suppress either RFI or EMI!
Back to Top
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Why are Magnecor ignition wires for German and
some other European vehicles so different?
We are often asked why the ignition wires we make for
German and certain other European vehicles are different
to the original wires. The reason is that a great number
of German and other European engines are fitted with
ignition wires that consist of separate solid plastic
(some with metal shields or coated with silicone rubber)
spark plug and distributor connectors screwed into solid
copper-conductor ignition wire. These connectors contain
encapsulated resistors to provide suppression, and it
is these costly (to replace) resistor connectors that
cause this style of ignition wires to fail.Magnecor
Race Wires for German other European engines completely
eliminate the need for resistor-connectors, and owners
will notice a difference in engine response with Magnecor
Race Wires. Although we are always pleased to hear our
wires made such a difference, particularly on Porsche,
BMW and Volkswagen engines, we must admit it's not necessarily
all because Magnecor Race Wires increased the engine's
response and efficiency, as it's more likely some of
the improvement emanated from the elimination of the
original style of ignition wires that reduced the spark
energy available to the spark plugs to provide suppression.
Occasionally, consumers who have their German vehicle's
regular maintenance performed by the dealer are advised
their Magnecor ignition wires don't have the same resistance
as the original wires, and sometimes the dealer justifies
the re-installation of the ridiculously expensive limited-life
original style resistor-connector ignition wires with
this statement. Be assured that Magnecor ignition wires
do provide the resistance needed by the ignition system
— and without a reduction in spark energy! Magnecor
has sold tens of thousands or more wire sets over the
last 21 years to replace resistor-connector style ignition
wires on BMW, Mercedes, Porsche and Volkswagen and other
European vehicles.
Back to Top
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Which ignition system should I fit to get extra
horsepower?
The following information is derived from the
opinions and experiences of the thousands of Magnecor
customers with whom we discussed ignition systems over
the years. Magnecor does not manufacture anything other
than ignition wires, but it's important for Magnecor
to investigate, evaluate and test the ignition systems
with which Magnecor Race Wires will be used on all sorts
of engines and under all sorts of extreme or otherwise
conditions.In recent years there has been a huge increase
in aftermarket products which can improve the ignition
performance of race and street engines modified to increase
horsepower, and although the basic ignition systems
providing the spark energy are essentially the same
(inductive, CDI and magneto) as ever, the electronic
control of such systems to further benefit engine performance
and reliability has been significantly improved. Like
better ignition wires, improving an engine's ignition
system is a means to an end. A high-output ignition
system will rarely increase engine horsepower by itself,
and any noticeable increase is usually the result of
the new system reviving horsepower lost by a failing
original ignition system. However, if an engine is modified
to gain additional horsepower, little will be gained
unless a high-output ignition system and ignition wires
capable of delivering the additional spark energy (without
effecting other engine components) are installed to
enable the engine to take advantage of the modifications.Original
equipment inductive ignition systems with distributors
and the more recent direct ignition systems (DIS), that
eliminate the distributor by controlling the ignition
with a computer, are designed to output spark energy
moderately in excess of what is needed to fire spark
plug gaps under normal operating conditions and to control
timing and spark duration to improve the engine's ability
to control exhaust emissions, as well as ensuring the
engine is not overstressed during the vehicle's warranty
period. Ignition systems fitted to production vehicles
are not designed to encourage consumers to modify the
engines to gain extra RPM and horsepower.The following
is aimed at providing general information for individuals
who are considering replacing their production vehicles'
original ignition system with one of the many higher-output
systems available in the performance aftermarket: Although
original equipment ignition systems fitted to most recent
production vehicles will provide adequate spark energy
if no modifications to gain additional horsepower are
made to the engine, we are not aware that any of these
ignitions is suitable for a race engine or a highly
modified production engine used on the street. In some
instances, an original ignition system, as an integral
part of the electronic engine management system, can
thwart a power increase expected from mechanical modifications
and/or a chip replacement.Generally, aftermarket high-output
ignition systems are designed to enable a production
engine to reach higher RPM, and provide the spark energy
that will be needed to fire an engine that will be combusting
different fuels at a greater rate than a production
engine. In choosing a high-output ignition systems to
use on your modified production vehicle it's important
you investigate what works on your vehicle, taking into
account its engine type, year model and the purpose
for which you modified the engine. Fitting any of the
most recent high-output ignition systems available in
the USA to most production engines older than about
1986 is usually not difficult, and generally, any capacitor
discharge ignition (CDI) system such as those available
from Accel, Crane, Holley, Jacobs, Mallory, MSD and
others in the USA will prove to be ideal. CDI ignitions
create sparks that are compressed (and intensified)
into shorter duration and are specifically designed
to produce the extra spark energy needed by race and
modified street engines that will reach a higher RPM
than standard production engines, and use fuels more
difficult to fire than pump gasoline (petrol). Most
CDI ignitions incorporate multi-spark circuits to enable
the engine to run smoother under 3,000 RPM. Unfortunately,
with late model production vehicles sold in countries
where emission control laws are enforced, finding a
suitable high-output ignition will be more challenging,
and any attempt to fit just any aftermarket high-out
ignition system to these vehicles, without a thorough
investigation as to its suitability, could drastically
effect the driveability of the vehicle on the street.
Unless you know someone who has been successful in fitting
a particular type and brand high-output ignition system
to a vehicle identical to yours, you first need to contact
the ignition system manufacturer to confirm whether
or not they have a ready-to-fit system (with precise
fitting instructions) that can replace the original
ignition on your particular vehicle without upsetting
the whole engine management system. No doubt, someone
knowledgeable who works on vehicles similar to yours
will also know what's best from experience.From what
we have recently observed and tested, a high-output
inductive ignition system is more appropriate than a
CDI ignition system for most late model production engines
(modified or not) because this type of ignition provides
the longer duration spark needed by these engines. Basic
high-output inductive ignition systems are available
in the aftermarket currently from at least Accel, Crane,
Holley, MSD, and a menu driven high-output direct ignition
system is available from Electromotive.Often, on vehicles
used exclusively on the street, replacing a tired ignition
coil with a more modern higher-output coil from Accel,
Crane, Holley, Jacobs, Mallory, Moroso, MSD, Nology,
Torque Master and others can improve ignition performance,
particularly under load and at higher RPM. Again, it's
important that you confirm, in particular, that the
primary side of the higher-output coil will be compatible
with the vehicle's original ignition controller (e.g.
primary resistance is not substantially lower than the
original coil primary), to prevent overloading and failure
of the ignition controller.Never be fooled by any device
that is fitted between the ignition coil and the distributor,
and/or distributor and the spark plugs (in place of
ignition wires) for which claims of increased power,
multiple sparks, and better fuel economy are made. Like
"capacitor" wires, many of these devices have
come and gone over the last 50 years, and usually consists
of a sealed container in which the spark is forced to
jump an additional gap on its way to the spark plug
— thus increasing the coil output voltage! Also,
like "capacitor" wires, these devices can
produce sparks which (when cleverly demonstrated) are
usually perceived by the human eye as being "more-powerful."
The only "increase" a gullible consumer can
expect from any of these devices is an undesirable increase
in load on their vehicle's ignition system!If you own
an older vehicle that has a distributor points type
ignition, by far the best investment you can make is
an electronic ignition system which eliminates the distributor
points. Distributor points have a rubbing block which
wears down, causing the engine timing to change and
engine performance to deteriorate. Electronic ignitions
which eliminate distributor points are possibly the
best thing that's happened to improve ignition performance.
Not only is the nuisance and expense of continually
replacing and adjusting distributor points eliminated,
engines fitted with pointless ignitions will maintain
perfect ignition timing!In the USA, a good supplier
of kits to convert points distributors to an electronic
system is RML in Daytona Beach, Florida. These people
specialize in bolt-on conversion kits for Alfa Romeo,
and they can supply kits for other older vehicles with
points ignition.
Back to Top
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
(Question received from the UK) I see Nology
advertise "Plasma Leads" that increase horsepower
— can Magnecor Race Wires do the same?
"Plasma leads" are just another name
for Nology "HotWires" sold in the USA. The
claims by Nology are addressed in our document The Truth
About Ignition Wires Conductors
Back to Top
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I need suppressed wires for my top fuel drag
engine. I currently use solid wire conductor ignition
wires because the huge spark energy this engine needs
burns out every other style of wires I try. Will Magnecor
Race Wires work in this situation?
We are asked this question regularly by people who build
and tune huge 5,000 + horsepower top fuel V8 drag engines
and use, in particular, MSD and Mallory magneto ignitions
to produce the spark energy to successfully fire these
engines. Naturally, after we hear what these powerful
ignitions have done to other wires, we become as concerned
as our customers about the ability of our Race Wires
to fulfill the task of both providing suppression and
conducting the huge spark energy needed to fire these
engines.Over the years we have supplied both our KV85
and R-100 Race Wires to 5,000 + horsepower top fuel
drag engine builders needing suppressed wires to run
with extreme output ignition systems, particularly since
many engines now run many sensitive electronic components
(for ignition, engine management and data collection).
Our Race Wires have been developed and are specifically
constructed for this purpose — however, problems
can occur if these wires are improperly fitted, or improperly
terminated if an installer is terminating their own
wires without suitable equipment.Naturally, we are always
concerned about the costly events that could follow
either bad installation or bad termination of our wires,
and for this reason we only suggest to race engine builders
they try our Race Wires in their application to see
if they make a difference. We may be over-cautious in
our approach to this question, as there’s never
been an incident (to our knowledge) when properly fitted
and terminated Magnecor Race Wires did not provide the
EMI and RFI suppression needed or conduct the full output
from an extreme output ignition system used on a top
fuel drag engine. Thousands of Magnecor Race Wires are
currently used on successful drag engines worldwide.
Back to Top
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
How do I stop wires popping off spark plugs
(and distributor caps and ignition coils)?
Although this problem is not common, it is an irritation
for owners of the vehicles concerned. From our experience,
after working with vehicle owners to solve this problem,
we offer the following suggestions as to why this problem
occurs:Boots or connectors not fully pushed on (and/or
metal terminals inside not engaging):The most common
cause. If you are fitting wires to an engine where it
is almost impossible to easily reach the spark plugs
or distributor and/or ignition coil/s, it is advisable
to check the wires after the vehicle has run a few miles
to ensure that boots and terminals are properly engaging
and not just hanging there. An engine miss will usually
develop before boots or connectors actually pop off
spark plugs (see specific instructions in Magnecor wire
set boxes).Our best advice is not to rush the job. Before
removing and re-fitting the wires, remove all engine
components that need to be removed to properly access
the wires. Installers often try to avoid removing other
engine parts to access ignition wires, only to end up
having to do the job over again because the wires can't
really be fitted correctly without removing other engine
components.Terminals inside flexible style spark plug
boots have been spread by rocking boots from side-to-side
to remove: A common cause after the removal and replacement
of spark plug boots to reach spark plugs, although boots
don't always completely pop off spark plugs. Unfortunately,
all flexible silicone spark plug boots have a tendency
to bond to the spark plug porcelain, and combined with
terminals inside locking onto assorted size, shape and
material spark plug tops (nuts, ferrules), it is sometimes
almost impossible to easily remove the wires from difficult-to-reach
spark plugs. The best approach seems to be carefully
twisting the boot (with fingers as low as possible on
the outside of the boot) and pulling the boot straight
up and off the spark plug. Forcefully rocking on a boot
to break the seal and disengage the terminal inside
will inevitably spread the opening in the terminal and
cause it to fit too loosely on the spark plug top when
boot is re-fitted to the spark plug. Whenever possible,
remove spark plug boots when engine is cold, as spark
plug tops expand into the terminals to lock even tighter
when spark plugs are hot (or warm, some engines). With
care, a spread terminal opening can be gently brought
back into shape with long-nosed pliers.If you are using
Magnecor wires on a race engine, and are removing and
replacing the spark plug wires regularly, you should
take into account that you are putting many years of
wear on the spark plug terminals in a short period of
time (on most street-driven cars spark plug wires are
removed, at best, only once a year). Unlike other spark
plug wires used for racing, Magnecor wires can last
many years on the same engine — therefore, you
need to take special care to avoid damaging or deforming
the spark plug terminals, which by the nature of their
design and construction are small and easy to damage
or deform if enough force is used. All Magnecor spark
plug terminals are made from heavy gauge stainless steel
and can usually withstand more abuse than normal terminals,
but again, if enough force is used, any spark plug terminal
can be damaged or deformed. If you do badly damage a
terminal, we can usually repair the wire for you.Spark
plug connectors too full of silicone grease: A common
cause on engines (particularly those of Japanese origin)
which suffer the problem of moisture accumulating in
spark plug holes. In the interests of water-proofing
the spark plug connectors, well-meaning installers fill
an extended spark plug connector with too much silicone
dielectric grease, which can prevent the terminal inside
from ever locking onto the spark plug top. Driveability
problems caused by water in the spark plug holes can
be cured by applying a little silicone grease inside
the connector bottom seals to prevent arcing or to the
porcelain insulator of each spark plug (provided moisture
is removed and kept from accumulating in the holes)
— however, driveability problems will not be cured
if a connector’s terminal cannot connect over
a spark plug top because too much silicone grease is
stuffed into the connector. Too much grease stuffed
into flexible spark plug boots will cause similar problems.
Distributor and/or ignition coil problems:Spark plug
and coil wires can also pop off or out of distributor
or ignition coil towers. The usual causes are similar
to those that affect the spark plug ends of the wires
including, in particular, stuffing too much silicone
grease into the wire/s distributor and/or coil boots.
In fact, we advise installers never to apply silicone
dielectric grease inside a distributor or coil boot.
If you need to insulate a distributor cap or ignition
coil you should apply the silicone grease to the outside
of the boot (where the boot meets the distributor cap
or ignition coil) — distributor cap and ignition
coil towers are tapered, and too much lubrication inside
can cause boots to work their way up and off the towers
on vehicles that experience considerable vibration.Some
performance aftermarket distributor caps do not have
a chamfer at top of the brass inserts into which the
wires’ terminals will fit, so care needs to be
taken to avoid the wire’s brass distributor terminals
being caught on top edges of the inserts and becoming
distorted (and too loose in the insert) if terminals
are forcibly fitted. Usually, if a brass terminal does
become distorted, bending it back to its original shape
(compare with an un-distorted terminal on another wire)
is all that’s required.Exhaust gas is blowing
through a spark plug gasket (gaskets are used on some
spark plugs to seal between the plug and the cylinder
head) or through the body of the spark plug: A surprisingly
common problem on vehicles using extended spark plug
connectors to reach spark plugs in deep holes. The only
cure is to replace the spark plug gaskets each time
the plugs are removed and re-fitted, particularly if
the vehicle manufacturer recommends replacing the gaskets.
If you remove and replace your spark plugs regularly
(for example, on a race engine) then you should pay
particular attention to the condition of the spark plug
gaskets. Also, spark plugs themselves have been known
to leak around where the porcelain body seals into the
metal base. Dark colored marks left by leaking exhaust
gases on the porcelain will indicate this problem —
the only cure is to replace the spark plugs.In each
case, above, the pressure of the exhaust gases can force
the spark plug boot or spark plug connector off the
spark plugs.Engine vibration, G-Force and torque twist:Engine
vibration or shaking, if excessive, can cause ignition
wires to disconnect, particularly if wires are stretched
to fit onto spark plugs or into or over coil towers.
Always make sure Magnecor Race Wires (the R-100 10mm
version in particular, because of the extra weight)
are properly loomed up and supported so that wires cannot
swing and/or strike against nearby engine, body or suspension
components, which can cause wires to be loosened or
pulled from spark plugs, distributor cap and/or ignition
coil/s during high G-Force cornering or braking. This
is primarily due to the pure silicone construction of
the jackets of Magnecor's 8.5mm and 10mm cables, which
are much more flexible than other cables, and do not
get stiff over time.On Mazda rotary engines (in particular),
allow enough slack to prevent the torque twist of the
engine disconnecting wires from ignition coils.Spark
plugs are too short or too high:An all-too-common problem
with owners of Japanese origin engines fitting non-original
spark plugs that too short or too high compared with
the original plugs. Engines that use wires with extended
spark plug connectors need to be fitted with spark plugs
that are the same height as the original spark plugs
to enable both the terminals inside the connectors to
properly engage spark plug tops, and properly position
seals that cover the spark plug holes. Always compare
different brand spark plug heights with original spark
plugs before fitting them to the engine. This issue
is covered in more detail here.
Back to Top
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Do I need to clean my wires?
If so, what should I use?Magnecor wires last
much longer than any other wires, and for this reason
the wires will, in time, become coated (usually in patches)
with assorted and unsightly waste materials that originate
from roadways, oil fumes, waste coolant, road dust,
mud, deteriorating engine belts and tires (particularly
on engines that are exposed, such as a drag car). Some
of this material will contain carbon, and in certain
circumstances become conductive. An excessive layer
of carbon deposits could cause sparks to be induced
into it and grounded if spark plug gaps are wide, and
misfiring and other driveability problems could occur.
This is an unusual occurrence, but it can happen on
much-worked-upon engines that have been fitted with
the same Magnecor wires for an extended period of time
— so if you notice black deposits on your wires,
you should clean them.To clean wires; Use a mild solvent,
even alcohol will work, but make sure any flammable
solvent you use is completely evaporated before you
crank the engine. Common solvents will not damage the
silicone itself, but a solvent that is too strong may
remove the printing (ink) from the cable which identifies
the cable's conductor (if you are unsure, you should
experiment with a small patch first). Do not use a water-based
cleaner (unless you ensure the wires are completely
dry before use) since a layer of water is also conductive.
Do not use any sort of abrasive or corrosive cleaner,
which could damage the both the wires and other engine
parts around the wires.If fitted correctly, and not
damaged or exposed to conditions beyond ratings for
the wires, Magnecor Race Wires will last indefinitely,
however like any other part on your engine, they should
be cared for correctly.
Back to Top
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Your web site and advertising seem negative,
why are you so critical of your competitors?
To fully understand the answer, you should also read
the "truth" and "overview" documents
on this site. Due to the nature of the spark plug wire
industry we have no choice but to promote our products
the way we do. In an ideal world we would do nothing
other than inform consumers of the features we incorporate
in our wires, and the reason why we incorporated such
features to enable them to decide whether or not Magnecor
wires are suitable for their application. Our web site
is primarily designed to provide technical information
and advice to racers and street car owners who use our
wires.Before our web site, the staff at Magnecor spent
an inordinate amount of time on the telephone explaining
to consumers that what our competitors choose to say
about the capabilities of their wires in their advertising
is not necessarily true, and the too-good-to-be-true
performance gains promised by some promoters are nothing
more than distortions of fact. Some of our competitors
invent and promote features for their wires that are
of no value to anyone other than themselves and, often,
after reading our competitors' advertising, consumers
are concerned that Magnecor wires don't have the features,
or provide the phenomenal gains our competitors offer.
To save all concerned time and money, we use our web
site to assure consumers our wires will perform as well,
if not better than any other ignition wires on the market.Unfortunately,
being able to cash-in on deceptive claims for ignition
wires is assisted by some popular performance-oriented
magazines publishing articles that support their advertisers'
product claims without making any effort to investigate
whether or not there's merit in the claims made. These
publications are mainly concerned with filling advertising
space and do not want to offend their advertisers.Hopefully,
the above explains why we need to promote our products
in a way that may seem offensive, paranoid or arrogant
to some people (particularly if you are outside the
USA, where this method of promotion is less common).
Back to Top
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I see "Vitek" advertise that their
wires resist 1,200 degree F temperatures, is this possible?
"Vitek" brand wires are generic wires
fitted with braided fiberglass sleeving (intended for
abrasion resistance). Although braided fiberglass sleeving
can reach 1,200 degrees F without destroying itself,
the same can’t be said about the cable inside
the sleeving. In their advertising, Vitek only claim
that their braided fiberglass sleeving will resist 1,200
degree F.Unfortunately, in extreme situations where
there is little or no airflow, braided fiberglass sleeving
can almost reach the temperature of the heat source
and cook the cable inside, and for this reason, tight
fitting braided fiberglass sleeving fitted over the
cable jacket is virtually useless for heat protection.For
heat problems, our customers have reported that loose-fitting
reflective coated fiberglass sleeves slid over spark
plug boots can help in some cases. Thick loose-fitting
"fire sleeves" fitted over the spark plug
wires are very effective on race engines, but generally
it's bulk makes it impractical for use on a street engine
(and unsightly on a well presented street car engine).
By far the best solution for heat related problems with
all engine wiring is to shield, wrap or coat the heat
source itself, and to introduce more airflow around
where the spark plug wires are located.
Back to Top
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I want to use your KV85 Competition wires on
my late model unmodified street car. Can I damage stock
ignition components if I use these wires?
I have heard that wires used for race engines
can do that.Both Magnecor KV85 Competition and R-100
Race Wires can be used with standard ignition systems.
All late model vehicles sold in the USA require ignition
wires properly suppressed for EMI so as not to interfere
with exhaust emission control devices. Race vehicles
fitted with sensitive electronic equipment also need
EMI suppressed wires, and Magnecor specifically manufactures
its Race Wires wires for this purpose. Original Equipment
carbon conductor wires suppress EMI by resistance (which
reduces spark current) and will prematurely fail if
used with a race ignition. Magnecor Race Wires are designed
to conduct full output of a racing ignition and provide
EMI suppression for both race and stock engines. Generally,
only very low-resistance conductor and solid core performance
wires damage stock ignitions (and some high-output ignitions),
and other performance wires will not provide proper
EMI for an electronically controlled street engine,
causing the engine to run erratically. So-called "capacitor"
wires and dress-up wires using grounded braided metal
shields over the ignition cable will destroy stock ignition
systems, as this style of wires can break down and overload
the ignition system if not changed regularly.
Back to Top
|
|
|
